As I headed to South Africa, I carried with me a host of preconceptions largely shaped by my previous experiences in other African countries. During the two-week trip I found that these ideas were challenged again and again. Our adventure began in Kruger National Park, where we stayed in an exclusive eco-resort — an epitome of luxury amid the wilderness. From our private pool, we could gaze down into the valley where hippos wallowed in the river, a fish eagle hunted for food,